Topic: TN/Wine Advisor: The importance of the importer (Auxo Lunae Colli di Lunae)
Author: Robin Garr
Date: 20050427121316
The importance of the importer

When we learn to read wine labels, we begin with the basics: Check for the winery or producer, the country or region, the vintage and, if it's not assumed from the geographical information given, the grape varieties used. Oh, yeah, and ... try not to be influenced by the pretty picture or any laudatory public-relations prose.

All this is good advice, and if you're still in that part of the learning process, you might enjoy a visit to our brief, illustrated Wine Label Decoder at http://www.wineloverspage.com/wines/labels.shtml .

But today let's talk about an important line on the wine label that's harder to find, as it's usually presented in microscopically small print, way down at the bottom of the front label or buried in a pile of technical data, legal warnings and other prose on the bottle's backside.

I'm talking about the line that identifies the importer, the hard-working individual or company that located the wine, negotiated a deal with the producer, and went through the legal red tape and paperwork required to bring it back to your country for distribution and sale. (Never a trivial task, this has become even more complicated for U.S. consumers in the post-9/11 era, when influential pressure groups have pushed for new regulations in the name of anti-terrorism that just happen to make it more difficult than ever for small overseas producers and importers to get their wines to consumers. But that's another story, for another day.)

Knowing where the wine came from, who made it, and what it's made of is all important information. But for me, if the wine is unfamiliar, then checking the importer's name will often sway the "buy" or "don't-buy" decision. Just like any merchant, an importer who's earned my trust will often make the sale on the basis of his name alone; one who's earned my disdain through lackluster product (or worse) will have a tough time roping me in for another try.

Today's featured wine, a delicious obscurity from Colli di Luni, a relatively little-known region of coastal Northwestern Italy, is an offering from John Given, a New York-based importer who's earned my strong trust with a narrow focus on just that sort of thing: All Italian, all the time, cherry-picking a few very good producers who've escaped the attention of larger importers. He's never failed me yet.

Let's wrap up today's sermon with a short, idiosyncratic list of U.S. importers who consistently make my "good guys" list. If their products are available to you, they deserve a second look. Listed alphabetically: Please note that this list is only a sample, not an unabridged directory. I'm sure I've overlooked some favorites; moreover, not all of these companies are represented in every state, and - regretfully - these names will be of little or no use to our many readers in other countries. I'd love to hear your suggestions, though, wherever you live. If you have a favorite importer, or several, that you'd like to tell me about, please send me E-mail at wine@wineloverspage.com, or better yet, post your comment in this thread.